Gertie's Roses

I am a fan of Gertie, her sewing books, and her Simplicity pattern line.  When she first started working with Joann's Fabrics last spring to create a fabric line, I stalked our local store waiting for her fabrics to arrive.  When her fall line came out, I bought some lovely red rose yardage.  Because it was a knit, I wasn't sure exactly what sort of a blouse I wanted to use it for. After all, modern knit fabrics didn't start appearing until well into the sixties.. Something modern, maybe, instead of my favorite fifties vibe?
Then, brilliant and lovely Gertie released a killer pattern using the self same fabric I had purchased!  I didn't even wait for the pattern to go on sale before buying it.  And bonus, it had an amazing skirt included in the pattern as well.

Butterick 6285

Before using my red rose fabric, which was on the pricey side even on sale, I made a muslin from a similar weight knit in black.  I love Gertie's creative patterns, which often sew together in nontraditional ways.  This pattern was no exception, and I had a great time sewing it up.  Sadly, the end result proved to be unwearable for me.  Gertie's patterns are designed for a curvier figure, and I have run across fitting difficulties with them before.  I wrongly supposed that the wrap design would be very forgiving.  My test version came out quite short-waisted and because the ties are long, they have some weight to them.  End result, the back of the blouse was constantly sliding up out from under the ties in the back.  And I had a slice of flesh showing with even my high-waisted skirts and pants.  As is, it is unwearable.  Sigh, not every pattern is for every girl.  I do think the pattern could be altered to fit me better, but I decided I didn't want to use my red roses fabric on it.

So, what to do?  I looked to vintage patterns for ideas.  I decided on a gently draped, cowl-like neckline.  Not being a curvy gal, a full cowl overwhelms me, but a little cowl appears all over the midcentury fashion landscape, and it was calling to me to give it a try. 

I used a modern pattern designed for knits, McCalls 6963, purely for that neckline, and was introduced to Palmer/Pletsch Fashion That Fits pattern line.  In Love!  A bunch of specific alteration suggestions tailored to the specific pattern you are working on.  My standard alterations for my top half are hardly rocket science, but I can't wait to try out a pants pattern from this line.

Success.  I am happy with my Gertie's Roses top.  Definitely a retro influence, but from a modern fabric and a modern pattern.  

Not to mention that red roses are right at home in the month of February.

Thank you, Gertie, for your inspiration!

Who inspires you when you sew?

Xx Piper

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A Little Brown Wren

http://www.chesapeakeconservancy.org/carolina-wren

Earlier this year Colette Patterns released the Wren dress pattern.  Although I had planned on saving this lovely for spring, (j'adore version 2,) I found some good quality tan, cotton-blend jersey that was calling me to make it into a winter version.

I sewed up version 1, adding a full ten inches to the length and using the three-quarter length sleeve variation Sarai put online, to make it suitable for chilly temperatures.

The pattern goes together beautifully and is very intuitive.  I used a size small bodice and graded to a medium at the waist and hips.  The bodice is quite form-fitting, which is nice, but I will probably sew a straight medium for my spring version.  I used clear elastic at the shoulder seams and across the front necklines, as another sewist commented online that hers was a little gapey at the bust. I didn't have this problem, whether because of the elastic, or how I fitted it, I'm not sure.

I would advise that if you sew this up for yourself, you should definitely baste the bodice to the skirt before doing any real sewing and try it on.  I adjusted the placement of the front wrap quite a bit to get a flattering fit for my figure.  The beauty of this bodice is that just like you can adjust a wrap dress to hang just right on you, you can similarly adjust this bodice before sewing.

I also raised the neckline in the back about a half inch, just for personal preference.  I sewed most of it on my serger, but double needle hemmed the sleeves and bottom hem using wonder under tape.  I am loving what a difference using this tape makes in getting a professional looking hem on a home machine.  I had no tunneling, stretch, or skipped stitches, and the brand I bought,(Dritz,) washes out and does not leave a residue on your needle.  Fabulous stuff.

This pattern makes a very wearable addition to my daily wardrobe.  I can style it vintage:

or with a more contemporary edge.

What are you up to this winter?

Xx Piper

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Messenger Bag Pattern Review

Guess who was lucky enough to be a pattern tester for Seamstress Erin's new messenger bag?

Moi, bien sur!

ACHATINA MESSENGER BAG

http://seamstresserin.com/shop/achatina-graphic-messenger-bag/

Don't you love the pattern artwork?

Erin is an indie pattern designer with a funky, fun vibe.  She designs basics with a creative twist, and provides lots of options for us to personalize a pattern and make it our own.  The Achatina bag is no exception.  This is a basic bag pattern that every seamster should have in their repetoire.  It can be interpreted in many different ways!

Have an amazing fabric you want to show off, but just can't quite see yourself wearing it as a garment?  Make an Achatina bag.  Wanting to try out machine applique, but not sure what to applique?  Erin's pattern provides cute applique options.  Need a man purse?  Achatina can easily be made of leather or canvas.

So what did I make, you ask?
I started by making a music bag for a talented young violinist I know, using the music note applique provided in the pattern.

Followed by a request for a similar bag from the violinist's teacher:

(Here we see the second bag modeled by Starry Night, cat model extraordinaire.)

These two are made from cotton blend twill and quilting cotton.  The black and white print is actually a music score.  If you make an Achatina bag from cotton or any medium weight fabric, be sure to interface the bottom,sides, and strap.

Next I went for a creative interpretation of the pattern sewn from a scrap of vegan leather:

I shortened the front flap and repurposed two belts for the straps across the front.  I was surprised how easily my machine sewed through the leather, including the belts.  I used a leather needle, and heavier thread. The bottom of the straps are sewn into the seam, so one uses the buckles to open and close the bag.  Not the best for an everyday bag, so I plan to use my friend Stephanie's idea of incorporating magnetic snaps next time.  I would love to make a version from real leather.

And a peek at the lining:

The pattern is beautifully designed.  I did the home pdf print, and it pieced together quickly and smoothly.  The instructions are clear and thorough, with plenty of illustrations. Each bag takes two to three hours to make, depending on the details one chooses.

More messenger bags are definitely in my sewing future.  Erin offers bonus packs with additional applique patterns on her website, including animal, nature, travel, and other themes.  Here are a few of my favorites:




http://seamstresserin.com/shop/applique-pattern-pack-around-world/

Piper needs an Eiffel Tower bag, non?

Hurrah for indie patterns!

Xx,

Piper

All contents of this blog are property of the owner unless otherwise indicated.  Please do not use or copy without permission.  Thank you.

RTW Remake: Sweater Knit

If you are a sewist, you are probably familiar with the BBC series The Great British Sewing Bee. 


(image source:www.popularpatchwork.com)

If not, go directly to Youtube and watch the most recent season (You're welcome.)

Every season, they feature a "High Street Remake,"  If there were an American version, they would probably call it the Mall Remake.  Essentially, it is taking a commonly found Ready-to-Wear garment, cutting into it, restyling it, and creating something new and original.  I am always amazed by the contestants' creativity.  This is a skill I would love to master, but haven't really investigated yet. Until now that is!

I have been wanting to sew up some sweater knit, but haven't been able to find much I would want to wear in my local fabric shops.  While going through my sweaters for winter (it has finally gotten chilly here,) I came across a grey marl sweater dress from Old Navy.  I never wore it much because the mock turtleneck was uncomfortable and didn't fit well. Oooh, my opportunity for a remake. Spoiler alert; I did not make anything up to Bee standards, but I did change the neckline.

The finished neckline.  Sorry I forgot to take a before pic!

I decided to go for a v-neck.

Here's how I did it: First, I cut off the offending mock turtleneck.  I was careful to keep the neckline high, because I anticipated possible unraveling and that the weight of the knit might pull the neckline down.  Then I found center front and center back and marked each with a pin.  At center front I cut down to form a slight v.  Next, I cut the piece I had removed along the seam so it would lay flat as a rectangle.  I cut two strips from the rectangle to form binding strips for the neckline.  I joined the two strips using my serger to make one long strip, which I folded in half lengthwise.  I placed a length of clear elastic tucked up between the two layers of the folded binding to add strength and reduce stretching.  I pinned the binding to the neckline on the right side of the dress, matching raw edges.  I started at center back, placing the seam of the binding at the pin. Then I worked forward to the point of the v, stretching the binding piece slightly as I went.  When I got close to the v, I estimated where each piece of binding should end then cut the ends of a half inch longer than that point.  I serged the two ends together at an angle, then finished pinning the binding.  Next, I machine basted the binding strip to the neckline, checked it, then serged it.  Finally, I turned the seam to the inside and pressed it down.  I tried topstitching a little bit of the neckline with a stretch stitch, but it seemed like it was making the neckline too rigid, so I just left it off.  The pressing made the binding lie nice and flat, and it was still flat even after washing.  To make a long story short, I basically did the neck just like I would for a tshirt.  And it worked.

The wrong side of the refinished neckline

I was excited.  From start to finish, it took me about twenty minutes.  This project was an all around win for me; a now wearable dress and practice with sweater knit.  Sweater knit really was not that hard to handle.  My serger and my machine handled the bulk fine, and I really didn't have the unraveling problems I was expecting. The v is actually much more balanced than it looks in the photo, which was taken at an angle.

What do you think?  Will a sweater restyle be in the works for you?

Xx Piper

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My first Sew Chic Pattern

Pattern Review for the Ehlen Blouse

This is the lovely Ehlen.  You can find her at:

http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/ehlen.html

As you may recall, I have been on a 40s kick lately, and I couldn't resist ordering this blouse pattern.

I picked out my material and notions,

and set to work.  Ehlen is fully lined.  You make a full bodice out of the lining material and turn it inside out before attaching it to the fashion fabric bodice.

Even the sleeves are lined.  When you set in the sleeves, you sew the outer layer of the sleeve to the outer bodice, fold in the seam allowance of the lining sleeve and stitch it to the lining of the bodice, like you would do if you were sewing a coat or jacket.  Fabulous.  This is a pattern for the sewist who loves the intricacy of a beautifully designed pattern with interesting details.

I recommend Ehlen for the advanced intermediate or higher level of sewist.  The instructions are clear, but minimal.  All the pieces went together perfectly.  I used navy bias tape for the trim.  Getting it to sit perfectly is not for the faint of heart!

I thought it came out rather nicely, though.

The buttons are all decorative.  There is an invisible zip on the side.  I finally invested in an invisible zip foot, and it made putting in the zipper so much easier!

And here she is:

Confession time; I spent a huge amount of time and energy fitting the top part of the bodice so that it fits me like a glove.  It did not occur to me to fit the peplum! Consequently, it cuts me in a strange spot.  I'm fairly sure this is just a vaguary of my particular figure.  I'm still thinking about how to alter it.  I may shorten the peplum and/or take it in at the sides.  Ideas, anyone?

Overall, if you have been on the fence about investing in a Sew Chic pattern, I would recommend you go on ahead.  I feel more Sew Chic in my future!

Xx Piper

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Matching Moji

How to Cut Seamwork Magazine's Moji Pant Pattern from Plaid Fabric

What have you been sewing lately?  If you are like me, you have a total pattern crush on the Moji Pant from the September Issue of Seamwork Magazine.  You can view that issue here:
https://www.seamworkmag.com/issues

After reading this issue, which was undeniably the best issue of Seamwork yet, (llamas!) I wanted a pair of plaid Moji pants.  I assembled the PDF and sewed some up as soon as I possibly could.

Et voila!

!

I am loving the urban chic vibe of this pattern! I made it up in some flannel shirting from my stash. I think the cuff and pockets save them from being pajama pants. When the weather cools down I will wear them oversized sweaters for casual weekend wear. Another pair in denim has been added to my sewing queue.

You may have noticed that a fabulously experienced sewist (ahem) also wrote an article for how to match large prints, stripes and plaids in this same issue.  The advice given was rather general, so a few people have asked me it I could do a how-to for matching the plaid on Moji.  The key to getting the perfect plaid match on your Mojis is all about how you cut them out.

So, here is a how-to on cutting the Moji from plaid fabric in order to get a lovely pattern match.

Matching Moji

1) Once you have assembled the PDF, trace it off on tissue paper or pattern paper.  You will need to be able to see the pattern of the fabric through the pattern.  This is a great time to make any adjustments to the pattern.  (I added two inches in length around mid leg.)

2) Lay out the fabric, right side up, in a single layer (no folds.)
I know.  You may have to banish children and pets and spread it out on the floor, unless you have a ginormous cutting table.

3) Lay out one front pant piece.  I recommend anchoring the bottom of the leg on a horizontal stripe in the plaid.

Be sure to get the grainline on the pattern running as close as possible to parallel with the vertical stripe.  Before pinning, play around a bit with the placement.  Traditionally, a dominant stripe should run down the center of the leg, here the center of the pattern piece.  Also pay attention to where the straight line above the curve of the crotch lies.  This will be center front of your pants.  Remember that wherever you place that line, you will get a mirror image of the pattern on both sides of that center front seamline.  Look at the center front picture above to see what I mean. If you can, cut a square of plaid in half or place a background color here.

Also keep in mind that you want to place this first pant front piece toward the edge of the material, so that there is room to cut another pant front out right next to it.  When you are happy with the placement, pin and cut one pant front piece.

 .  
4) Unpin the pant front piece you cut from the paper pattern, and use the cut piece of fabric as the pattern to cut the second pant front piece.  Remember to put the cut piece face down so that you are laying right side to right side. Match the plaid of the cut piece identically to the uncut fabric.  The cut piece will almost seem to disappear. Pin carefully and generously, then cut.

5) Repeat this process for the back pant pieces.  Anchor the bottom of the leg on the same horizontal stripe of the plaid that you used for the pant front, so that your side seams will match horizontally.

Are you still with me?  You can move up to the table now. I had to go feed the dogs at this point.

6) Cut the waistband.  Do not attempt to match to the pant.  Keep the horizontal stripe perfectly straight along the edges of the pattern piece.

7) Next you will cut the pocket pieces.  To get them to match the plaid on the center front, you will need to lay the pattern piece onto the cut center front piece, and then draw the lines of the plaid onto the paper pocket pattern using a pencil.  Next place the pocket pattern onto the right side of a remaining uncut piece of fabric and match the lines drawn on the pattern piece to the plaid lines on the fabric. Pin generously and cut.

My pocket pattern looks a little strange here, because I have lengthened the pocket, but you can see the pencil lines where I have drawn the thin, white lines of the plaid onto the pattern paper,

 If cut correctly, the pocket piece should lay on the center front with the pattern matching.

 8) To cut the second pocket, turn the paper pocket pattern over, lay it on the other center front piece, and once again draw the plaid lines onto the paper pattern piece, this time on the back.  Then match, pin, and cut as described above.

9) Next, if you are adding cuffs, cut the cuff pieces in the same manner you cut the pocket pieces, one piece at a time, this time matching to the front and back legs at the bottom.

i

10) Finally, cut a second set of pockets to form the pocket linings from whatever scraps are left.  You don't have to worry about pattern matching since they won't show.  In fact, if you have run short of fabric, you can cut them from another fabric altogether.

C'est tout!  Now you are ready to sew.  Remember to pin carefully, checking your plaid match as you sew the side seams and the inside leg seam.  Because the leg of Moji tapers, your vertical stripe won't match on the side seams, but the horizontal stripe will.

Matching the plaid on Moji will definitely add some time onto the project, but if you are like me, you will enjoy the challenge. After reading the article on the history of plaid in this issue of Seamwork, I am wanting plaid everything! (And a llama.)

Xx Piper

 

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Feeling the Forties

Pattern Review for Butterick B6055

I have been feeling the 1940s lately.  The 50s are usually my favorite vintage era to sew from, but I am expanding to the WWII era.  I have been reading historical fiction set in the era, listening to period blues and band music, and setting my hair in pincurls.

So naturally, I thought I might sew up a forties dress pattern.  Authentic forties patterns are a little harder to come by, but Etsy and Ebay usually have a good selection.  I own a few, but was drawn to a Butterick repro pattern, B6055.

You can take a peek at the pattern here: 
http://butterick.mccall.com/b6055-products-48574.php?page_id=147

What drew me to the pattern, other than its vintage appeal, is that it is an easy, straightforward pattern to sew. The directions are clear and easy to follow, and the raglan sleeve, front darts and full skirt make it an easy design to alter to fit to one's figure.  It is almost like a basic sloper, so if you are feeling creative, you can customize it in all kinds of ways.  And I did.

I changed the pocket:

Added a cuff on the sleeve:

Detailed with rickrack and a period authentic button and buckle set I bought on Etsy.

What do you think? How would you alter it?

I can see it with the zipper moved to the front and a mandarin collar.  I can see it looking much dressier in a silk/rayon blend and a petticoat for volume.

 Ooo, serious pattern crush coming on.  How would you sew it up?  Do tell in the comments.

Xx Piper

All contents of this blog are property of the owner.  Please do not use without permission.  Thank you.