Phantom Photos

 Here is my Phantom Jacket from Sew Chic Patterns.  Above you see me modeling in the pose shown on the pattern cover.

And here it is on my mannequin, Colette.

Here we stand side by side, allowing you to see the highwaisted crop pant pattern included with the jacket.

And a few details about construction....
I sewed the seams using my serger and a three thread overlock stitch.  This involved removing the left most needle from the serger.  The effect is a narrower serged seam.  The organza sewed up beautifully, but unpicking a seam just was not an option because the fabric is so delicate.  I was able to do fairly well by hand basting before sewing, but I did have to recut one sleeve and put it in a second time.  I was able to save the bodice by cutting the sleeve away.  Again, this material does not take kindly to the seam ripper.  I finished the hem by serging then turning and top stitching.  I used the machine to make the buttonholes, and they went in perfectly, although I was holding my breath the entire time.  The sharp eyed among you will have noticed a little waving along the center front button placket.  This is actually not due to button placement, but rather how I dealt with the front placket pieces. Because these pieces are designed to fold over, the pattern of the organza is doubled on this section.  This is charming with tiny polka dots, but with my large dots, it would have been dizzying.  So I cut the pattern piece in half vertically and made the part that folds under out of plain white organza.  What I didn't anticipate was that because my dotted organza has a slight crinkle texture to it, it stretched and flattened a little as I sewed it, while the plain organza did not; thus the waver.  I don't find it to be that noticeable.

This was a really adventurous, fun challenge for me.  I would sew this pattern again in a heartbeat, especially if I ever run across organza  with tiny dots!  I would not ever try to sew it in a fabric that requires a pattern match again;  possible, but not desirable.

I feel very chic in my Phantom dream jacket, and if you make one of your own, be ready for people who had their heyday in the fifties to stop you and tell you that you look like Audrey Hepburn (!)

Oh,and one more thing; cats loooove organza, but organza does not love cats!

Xx Piper

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